Success. 5 days in Salt Lake City, Utah and not one freak lightning storm. Yes, I even played basketball in the gym of a Mormon church without the building spontaneously bursting into flames. Impressive, I know. Actually, what I thought would be a predominantly tee totaling experience turned into an enlightening foray into Salt Lake's burgeoning wine culture. First, as per my article published on this site, I discovered a few treasures at the state-run wine store. If you didn't read the article, (shame on you! go to the 'Wine Articles' section of WineEncyclopedia.com and look for "From Utah to the Loire with (St.) Nicolas Joly"), then you won't know that I found a bottle of 2004 Clos de la Coulee de Serrant for a mere $40. Jackpot. Shortly thereafter, encouraged by one 'steal' and confident that I was in exactly the right place to find premium bottles without paying through-the-nose east coast prices, I stumbled on another treasure. One of my favorite easy-drinking cab francs from the motherland of Cab Franc: Chateau de la Bonneliere Chinon, for $15! There I was, squealing like a child in delight, my Mormon brother and his equally chaste roommate looking on in horror. Perhaps in my own way I was seeking some of their purity; as I approached the register with my finds, I realized that I had unconsciously selected two bottles made by completely bio-dynamic producers in the Loire. I suppose my Mormon roots were shining through; my body is a temple, and that night it was only the cleanest, unadulterated fruit.
The next night I visited the restaurant where Conor works to give the staff a brief presentation on basic winemaking techniques. I touched on both new and old world technique, and relate them to a tasting of a couple of wines from the restaurant’s list. The restaurant, Donovan’s Steak and Chop House, on 138 Pierpont in downtown Salt Lake City, boasted an impressive wine list. Thanks to sommelier extraordinaire, James Santangelo, the list boasts not only all of the usual Napa suspects, but an impressive selection of interesting Old World reds as well. In fact, at the bar, after the presentation, I sampled a glass of Bodegas Zabrina Atteca Old Vine Garnacha 2007, from Calatayud, Spain. Its intensity shocked me; it boasted pure bright cherry fruit, racy acidity, and black pepper to spare. It was no Priorato, but held the distinction of being one of the most interesting reds I’ve had by the glass in quite some time.
The next night Jimmy and I agreed to meet at the new hot-spot Pago. We had business to talk, and I needed an excuse to try the restaurant rumored to have a cutting edge wine program that I’d heard about on the East coast. Scott, the young owner and former sommelier, greeted us at the door. Upon entering, the sleek, stainless steel open kitchen looks onto a 5 person bar and a few tables beyond that. Around a corner a cozy narrow dining room with exposed brick walls and a casual laid-back atmosphere is perfectly juxtaposed. We chose the bar and Scott immediately suggested starting with a 2007 Picpoul from the Languedouc. Spot-on. Intrigued and impressed by the Picpoul and inspired by the (relatively) warm weather I brought to Salt Lake, Jimmy and I decided to stick to light fare and whites. Next, a short glass of lively Adami prosecco with miniature crab rolls. We were two for two. Next, Jimmy ordered the caviar pillows, and on cue Scott put down a mystery glass of white. I immediately picked muscadet by its distinctive nose, but we were both thrown by its significant weight and texture, and were convinced it must be a blend. Scott produced the bottle— Bregeon Muscadet 2007 from Alsace. We spotted ‘sur lies’ on the bottle, et voila, the full body is explained. Next, with our spicy tuna, neither Jimmy nor I could resist ordering a glass of the Latour Montagny 2005 1er cru. Ok, so on paper it wasn’t the perfect match, but I never need an excuse to drink a fabulous white burgundy when it is offered by the glass, especially a 2005. Scott’s by the glass program is supported by an eno-matic system using nitrogen to preserve freshness, and allowing him to offer premium whites. It did not disappoint, and the evening was perfectly capped while we sipped and listened to Scott tell of his travel adventures pre-restaurant. I laughed along, and took enormous heart in the fact that such a successful entrepreneur shared some of the same harrowing on-the-road experiences that I sometimes think only I could have been crazy and irresponsible enough to put myself through. In the end, I would recommend anyone traveling to or living in Salt Lake not to miss Pago. Sit at the bar. Have your server recommend a few dishes, and ask Scott to pair the wine. If all new ventures in SLC deliver half the character and quality of Pago, Salt Lake will in no time be a top gastronomic destination.
Finally, because Jim couldn’t sleep until he had facilitated enough Utah-wine-industry hand-shakes to last a lifetime, we headed from Pago’s to an afterhours party at Cannella’s Italian bistro, where a who’s who was assembled. After slipping through a fortress of security, (it always helps to be on the list), we made our way to the bar, only to be sheparded to one side so the burlesque show could take center ‘aisle.’ That’s right, I said burlesque show. And that’s right, I was still in Utah. Brilliant. I won’t bore you with any more labels from this evening; I laughed at the unexpectedness of it all, and suddenly realized I had grown tired of analyzing my glass. When a scantily-clad Mrs. Clause asked me what I wanted to drink, I replied, “Hendrick’s martini, ice-cold, bone-dry, cucumber.” And when someone asks me how my trip to Utah was, I’ll laugh, and use the word ‘unexpected’ once more. From the Coulee de Serrant to the tassles: unexpected, but brilliant.