The Loire Valley, France’s largest geographical winegrowing region follows the Loire River from Orleans all the way to the Atlantic.  Some of the most interesting and delicious wines hail from this region, but in my opinion, none so refined and sumptuous as those that rise from the chalky soil of Vouvray, made exclusively from the charming, yet finicky grape,  Chenin Blanc.

Chenin Blanc, often referred to as the ‘pinot noir’ of white grapes, is an extremely delicate varietal grown in one of the most unpredictable climates in France.  Vouvray also boasts one of the latest harvests in France, giving Mother Nature more time to throw growers and winemakers a curve-ball.  These factors, combined with the fact that Chenin Blanc is known for providing winemakers with a fairly neutral palette, commands a high respect for the winemaker who successfully uses the same hallowed and minimalist techniques year after year to produce a true expression of terroir.  Like all great wines, great Vouvray tastes like the place in which it was made. 

One such producer, Frederic Bourillon, clearly approaches winemaking with the same respect for nature and the culture of the vines that the best of his peers share.  His domaine, Bourillon Dorleans, treats each cuvee with the same care: grapes are handpicked, gently de-stemmed, and pressed pneumatically at a very low pressure, which, in laymen’s terms, means that only the best juice is extracted from the best grapes.  As do most French wines that best express terroir, the juice is then left to spontaneously ferment, (instead of introducing a catalog-bought yeast to produce similar characteristics in dissimilar vintages).  Then, after fermentation is complete, the wine is aged in a combination of stainless steel tanks and French barriques, depending on tannin structure and desired aromatics, among many other factors. The wine that is aged in barrique finds itself resting at an optimal temperature in natural troglodyte caves dating back to the 15^th century!  When the winemaker deems ready, the wine then undergoes the gentlest and most unobtrusive filtration, before being bottled on-site.  (Bottling on-site, while expensive, assures that no quality is sacrificed while transporting the wine to an off-site bottling line at a very delicate stage in a wine’s life.)  

The Bourillon Dorleans that I speak of today hails from a specific vineyard site called La Bourdonnerie, which resides on 50 hectares of the best slopes in the commune of Rouchecorbon, Vouvray.  This vineyard boasts a very chalky, limestone rich soil, which works to de-vigorate otherwise very rigorous vines to produce a very low-yield.  (Low-yields are preferable, as the resulting grape will be much more complex in flavor when it does not have to share as many nutrients.)  The resulting grapes are then vinified in the same manner described above to produce a wonderful demi-sec Vouvray, the likes of which can now be found on the shelves of the Wine Thief in its 2006 incarnation. 

Demi-sec, or off-dry, denotes that the wine will be semi-sweet, and constitutes most of Vouvray’s still wine production in every vintage.  This is largely due to the fact that most consider demi-sec to be Vouvray’s most natural variety, and the best showcase for Chenin Blanc’s ‘honeyed freshness’. 

The Bourillon Dorleans, Vouvray, ‘La Bourdonnerie’, 2006, pours into the glass a transparent, pale yellow, not quite dark enough to be called straw.  On the nose, it first displays green apples, then some pear and honeysuckle, mixed with fresh flowers.  Finally, there is an underlying aroma of wet stone.  On the palette, a wonderfully silky start gives way to a mid-palette of lemon peel, minerality and lively acidity that tapers off for a delicate, yet lingering honeysuckle finish.  This wine is magnificent alone, but will complement many types of food.  With cheese, at the beginning or end, I suggest brie or fontina.  If pairing with a main dish, it is recommended with shellfish, especially scallops, or a white fish, especially sea-bass.  If you’re feeling adventurous, try it with frog lets with garlic, parsley, and lemon—to die for! And dessert, well, really any dessert, but my mouth waters for a pairing with anything lemon or almond based—your options on this frontier are limitless!

Finally, if you are in need of a great gift-bottle, a demi-sec Vouvray such as this is the ultimate crowd-pleaser because of its enormous range of appeal at an affordable price-point. It’s soft nose, and sweet finish makes it accessible to those who turn away from sharp or bone-dry wines.  On the other hand, wine enthusiasts tend to appreciate its delicate nature, ability to age, and its tendency to reflect terroir.  All in all, a crowd pleaser for sure, but at the very least, pleasing this passionate rambler to the last drop.