The '80s: Big Hair and Good, Cheap Wine

The recent passing of President Reagan and all the reminiscing about his presidency brought back a flood of memories about life in the 1980s. Leg warmers, big hair, Prince, the Revolution, and the fall of Communism filled my mind.
In 1983, I was working in a corporate conference center. Groups would come for a day of training and a cocktail party feast, with a raw bar, passed hors d'oeuvres, and carving stations. A two-foot tall hourglass filled with white sand was ceremoniously turned over signaling the start of open bar. It held 72 minutes of sand, 75 on humid days. When the sand ran out, the bar was closed and you couldn't get another drink, unless you were an executive vice president and demanded a final martini before you backed your Town Car into a lamppost and we called you a cab.
The house white wine was Premiat, a Chardonnay from Romania. This was Communist Romania and the wine was cheap, mass produced in huge communes, and surprisingly good. Crisp and un-oaky with lemon verbena flavors, we poured gallons of this each evening, a testament to America's culinary maturity. Just five years before, wine was for bohemians. Manhattans and Vodka Tonics ruled. But this wine had promise. It had style, and it was cheap. But then it disappeared. Like much from Romania, it was cloaked in mystery.
What happened in Romania was democracy, Eastern European-style. In a country with a long history of conflict, the scene of the American presidents, current and former, sitting together at the funeral for one of their colleagues is unheard of. Vlad Tepes, medieval ruler of Romania, earned the nickname Vlad the Impaler. He may have been the model for Dracula, but modern research has shown that Transylvanian section of Romania to be the home of several blood drinking cults that believed their nocturnal activities made them immune to the Black Plague. Plus, Transylvania was part of the Austrian-Hungarian Empire from the late Middle Ages until after World War I and they should take the some of the heat for the vampire stories.
Wine has been cultivated for in Romania for 2,300 years. Called Dacia by the Greeks and Romans, Romania is a Latin-esque country in the midst of a Slavic world. They have a thing for wine, while the Slavs have a thing for fruited brandies. The French love the Romanians like little brothers, while the Russians are partial to the Slavs.
Romania is best known for its rich, deep reds and super sweet dessert wines, but is highly capable of making the light fresh whites Americans like. But then there was Ceausescu, the Communist dictator who created a government totally committed to him. He did, however, produce great wine. He needed the foreign currency. On Christmas Day 1989, he and his wife were executed and the wine went from a state owned commodity to an up-for-grabs private enterprise. It took several years for the chain of command to develop. But now the juice is flowing again and the quality is improving.
Reca is one of Romania's biggest producers. They plant Pinot Gris, Cabernet, Merlot, and Rkatsitelli, a slightly sweet grape from Armenia, and Babeasca, a native Romanian grape that produces deep Rioja like wine. The Cotnari region of Moldavai produces the best varieties and is known for its (IT)botrytis-affected dessert wines. Also, look for wines from the Busuioaca, Dealul Mare, and Tirnave regions.
Premiat Wines grows varietals that'll be familiar to the American palate. It recently won a silver medal for its Pinot Noir produced in its Dealul Mare vineyards. Premiat produces Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, and a Riesling from the Castle Tarnave region, where it's been making wine since 1389. Premiat wines cost $8 to $10 a bottle.
Recas Vineyards produces the ultra slick, pretty good Vampire Wines. In my opinion the Pinot Noir is best, but the Pinot Grigio is nice, too. They make a Cab, a Merlot, and a Chardonnay as well. Everything except the Chardonnay comes from Recas's Transylvanian vineyards. The website, vampirewines.com, is very Anne Rice and you can even purchase a copy of the (IT) Lost Boys with Kiefer Sutherland along with your wine. The price range is $6.66 to $9.99.

Some more upscale Romanian wines include:

Villa Zorilor Prince Matei Merlot: This is a juicy, rustic Pomerol type wine from Dealul Mare, which means "big hill." It's part of the Vinarte group owned by Italian Chianti producer Fabio Albisetti, $16.49
Prahova Valley Pinot Noir from Prahova Wine Cellar: This wine has the ammonium and cherry flavors of a medium grade Appellation Controlee burgundy at half the price, $15.99.