Give the Gift of Wine: Bottled or Boxed
        By Tim Protzman

Sometimes you get The Waltons, sometimes you get the Borgias-it all depends on the circumstances of birth. Whatever hand Nature has assigned to you, it's a fact that you spend time with your family at Christmastime and Hanukkah, which begins at sundown on Dec. 25. And both celebrations, although religious, require gifts to be given.

They say you can pick your friends, but not your family so sometimes you're stuck buying gifts for people who may be less than deserving. That's where wine comes in.

Rather than a Rooster Tea Cozy from the Christmas Tree Shops, give a bottle of something nice-or cheap-depending on your comfort level. You don't have to love them; you just have to spend a major portion of your holidays with them.

Here are some suggestions guaranteed to impart a false or even real sense of familial bliss.

The Half Bottle: This can be for the family member who's naughty or nice. If they're really good and may be older and you stand a chance to get into the will, then a nice half bottle of a dessert wine or good Bordeaux makes a great stocking stuffer. A Sauterne like Chateau Rieussec ($27.99), which pairs with salty cheeses, nuts, or desserts, is for those you want to impress. Half bottles (375 ml) are a great way to give a superior wine, like a Cult Cabernet or good Second Growth Bordeaux for a little less than a whole bottle.

For that aunt or uncle who used to tease you and now lives alone with their cats on a fixed income, half bottles are inexpensive and perfect for that solitary dinner on the TV tray. Fetzer Valley Oaks Chardonnay, $4.49, is nice and the recipient can have a glass without the expense and danger of falling down, breaking a hip, and moving in to recuperate. Half bottles also present an economical way of giving a wide variety of wines for the enthusiast to sample.

Boxed Wine: Perfect for the new wine initiate to enjoy or just to have for a party. It's economical and the wine stays fresh. Peter Vella Chablis is crisp, smooth, and good for a picnic or informal gathering, and at $10.99 for five liters the heavy hitters in your family will be ecstatic without breaking your budget.

Fruit Wines: This is an unusual gift for the wine enthusiast that won't set you back and won't draw a ho-hum response. Elderberry, apple, or even dandelion wines are available. And while not in the same league as Niente ($49.99) or Ferrari-Carano ($26.99) taste-wise, it will make a memorable impression. Try Eric Bordelet's Poire Authentique, Normandy Sparkling Pear Cider ($15.99) to kick it up a notch in taste and quality.

The greatest wine gift I've ever heard was for one of those 30-something unmarried cousins who still lives with his mother and collects Star Trek memorabilia. The gifter soaked the label of a cheap bottle of Australian Shiraz (try Rosemount Estates Cab/Merlot, $6.99) and made a new label for Klingon Blood Wine. The geek was thrilled!

Here's what I'm drinking and giving as wine gifts this week:

2003 Cricklewood Pinot Noir: $16.99. Great New World burgundy from a transplanted French vintner in Oregon's luscious Willamette Valley.

1998 Vina Mayor Reserva: $14.99. From Spain's premier region, Ribera del Duero, it's a little bit Pinot, a little bit Cabernet. Great taste, smooth finish with a multiple flavor structure, and no after-burn. One hundred percent Tempranillo grapes.

2001 Columbia Crest Walter Clore Private Reserve Red Wine: $26.44. Named after a Washington State winemaking pioneer, this Bordeaux-style red is 56 percent Cabernet, 37 percent Merlot, and 7 percent Cabernet Franc. Very nice, elegant, but I'd love to taste this in six years when the echoes of the fruit explosion die down.

Viu Manet Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon: $13.99. Two different wine shops sang its praises, and I heard the chorus and loved it. One of the best inexpensive wines ever. Drinks like a $30 Californian.

Subhead: Merlot is Back!

Sick of those chemical-tasting Cabernets? Switch back to Merlot and see why less really is more.

2001 Geyser Peak Merlot: $15.99. The tannic balance is perfect. The fruit is present, but not obnoxious. Thank goodness the Sonoma winemaker let nature take her course and opted for gentle nudges, rather than creating some Franken-wine monster.